Ngā Kereme mō te Oranga Tonutanga o Activewear: Me pēhea te Hanga Whakawhirinaki

He pūtake tō te whakahē. I arotakehia e te Changing Markets Foundation ngā kereme mō te oranga tonutanga puta noa i te umanga ahua, ā, i kitea e 60 ōrau he tinihanga, he koretake rānei. I roto i a Ūropi, i tirotirohia e te Komihana o Ūropi ngā kereme taiao, ā, i kitea e 53 ōrau he koretake, he tinihanga, he koretake rānei, ā, 40 ōrau kāore i tino kitea. Kei te whakautu ngā kaiwhakahaere: i waenga i te tau 2020 me te 2025, tata ki te 41.9 miriona euros te whiwhinga whiu greenwashing kua tuhia mō ngā waitohu ahua, me te 73 ōrau o taua tapeke i whakatakotoria i te tau 2024 me te 2025 anake.[2][3][4]Mō ngā waitohu kākahu whakakorikori tinana, he raruraru, he whai wāhitanga anō hoki tēnei. He mārama te raruraru: he iti noa te pānga o te kīanga "he papanga tauwhiro tā mātou e whakamahi ana" i ēnei rā, nā te mea kua rongo ngā kaihoko i tēnei mai i te katoa, ā, kāore rātou e whakawhirinaki ki tētahi. He iti ake te mārama o te whai wāhitanga engari he mea nui ake: nā te mea he koretake te nuinga o ngā waitohu, mā te motuhake ka tū motuhake tonu koe.E tohu ana ngā raraunga mai i ngā rangahau kaihoko o te tau 2025 i tētahi ara mārama ki mua. E whakaahuahia ana e tēnei tuhinga ngā whakataunga motuhake e wehewehe ana i tētahi kōrero pono mō te oranga tonutanga mai i tētahi e panukuhia ana e ngā kaihoko ki tua atu.

 

Rārangi Kaupapa

1. Tīmata ki ngā mea ka taea e koe te whakaatu
2. He aha te Mahi me te Oranga Tonutanga i kore ai e waiho hei Tauhokohoko i ēnei rā
3. Me whai ara motuhake te oranga tonutanga
4. Ko te haurua o te oranga tonutanga ka taea e tō kiritaki te pā atu
5. He aha te tikanga o tēnei mō tō waitohu

I roto i tētahi rangahau ā-ao i te tau 2025 nā Cotton Incorporated, i whakahaerehia puta noa i ngā whenua 13 me te neke atu i te 13,000 ngā kaiwhakautu, i kitea ai e 36 ōrau o ngā kaihoko e whakawhirinaki ana ki tētahi tiwhikete, ki tētahi hiri rānei mō te oranga tonutanga hei whakatau mēnā he pai mō te taiao ngā kākahu. Ko ētahi atu e whakawhirinaki ana ki ngā whakaahuatanga waitohu, ki ngā whakaahua paetukutuku, ki ngā whakaaturanga toa rānei, kāore tētahi o ēnei e taea te manatoko motuhake.[5]

Ko te take he mea hanga te hiranga o ngā tiwhikete. Ka taea e te tangata te tirotiro mēnā kei roto i te pātengi raraunga GOTS tētahi hua kua tiwhiketehia e te GOTS. Kāore e taea e tetahi te tirotiro mēnā he tikanga tō te "hoa ki te taiao".

Mō ngā kākahu hohe, e rua ngā rōpū e mōhiotia ana e ō kiritaki.

Ko ngā tiwhikete papanga e whakamārama ana i te mea i hangaia ai te rauemi me te āhua i hangaia ai.

• GRS (Paerewa Hangarua Ao)e manatoko ana i ngā ihirangi hangarua, ā, e aroturuki ana i roto i te mekameka tuku. Ko te kākahu kua tohua ko "GRS-certified recycled polyester" ko te tikanga kua arotakehia motuhaketia te pūtake muka, te ara whakaputa, me te ōrau hangarua.
• GOTS (Paerewa Kakahu Ora o te Ao)e kapi ana i te muka rauropi mai i te kotinga ki te hua kua oti, tae atu ki ngā paearu taiao me te pāpori. Ehara i te mea ko te miro anake e arohia ana, engari ko ngā tae, ko ngā matū whakaoti, me ngā āhuatanga o te wheketere.
• OEKO-TEX Paerewa 100ngā whakamātautau mō ngā matū kino puta noa i ngā wāhanga katoa o te kākahu mai i te miro ki te reti me te tānga. Koinei te tiwhikete tino kitea e ngā kaihoko i runga i ngā tapanga whakairi.

Ko te māramatanga taumata-hua te tuarua o ngā wāhanga, ā, ko te mea e kore e arohia e te nuinga o ngā waitohu. Ehara i te tohu tiwhikete. Ko te mahi tēnei o te kī atu ki te kiritaki ko tēhea paerewa e pā ana ki tēhea wāhanga o te hua.

Ko te ture whaihua mō tētahi waitohu e tipu haere ana: tīmata ki tētahi tiwhikete e ōrite ana ki tāu kereme hua tino nui, whakaaturia ki te whārangi o taua hua, ka tāpirihia ngā tiwhikete e ai ki tāu tauine whakaputa. Ko tētahi waitohu he kotahi te rekereke polyester hangarua kua tiwhiketehia e GRS me te whakapuaki pono mō ngā mea kua tiwhiketehia, kāore rānei, ka kiia he pono ake i tētahi waitohu e whakamahi ana i te "pūmau" ki tana kohinga katoa me te kore he paerewa kotahi e taea te manatoko i muri.

2. He aha te take kāore te Mahi me te Oranga Tonutanga e waiho hei Tauhokohoko i ēnei rā

I te tau 2025, i roto i te rangahau i whakaputaina ki te Journal of Global Fashion Marketing, i kitea he pānga pai te mahi me te pumau ki ngā hiahia hoko kākahu hākinakina. Kāore ngā kaihoko e hiahia ki te whiriwhiri i waenga i te mahi me te hinengaro. E tumanako ana rātou kia kotahi te kākahu e rua.[6]

I roto i tētahi rangahau ā-ao mō ngā kaihoko i te tau 2025 i tonoa e SHEIN, i tirotirohia ai te 15,461 ngā kaiwhakautu puta noa i te 21 mākete, i kitea ai ko te 47 ōrau o te hunga e tautuhi ana i ngā kākahu tauwhiro ko te mea tuatahi mā te pakari me te kounga roa, i mua i ngā rauemi iti te pānga i te 38 ōrau. Mō ngā kākahu hohe, 36 ōrau o ngā kaihoko i kī mai i mau i ngā taonga neke atu i te 50 ngā wā i mua i te reti, me te 17 ōrau anō i kī mai i te 31 ki te 50 ngā wā e mau ana. Ahakoa i ahu mai te rangahau i tētahi kamupene he hiahia arumoni ki te tautuhi i te tauwhiro hei pakari, e hangai ana te kitenga ki te rangahau whānui a ngā kaihoko: e aromatawai ana ngā kaihoko i te tauwhiro mā te mea e ora ana i tā rātou whakangungu tinana, kaua mā te mea e oatihia ana e te tapanga muka.[7]

Ka huri tēnei i te huarahi e kōrero ai te waitohu mō ngā rauemi tauwhiro. Ārahihia te mahi me te tāpiri i te tiwhikete hei tohu. "He pai te mahi a tēnei papanga, ā, anei te tiwhikete e whakaatu ana i hangaia me te tika" e kōrero ana i tētahi kōrero katoa. "Ka whakaorangia e tēnei papanga te ao" kāore he kōrero.

He rerekē ngā āhuatanga mahi o ngā papanga tauwhiro e wātea ana i ngā waitohu kākahu hohe o ēnei rā. He rite tonu te mahi a te polyester hangarua ki te polyester tauhou i roto i te tango makuku me te pakari, ā, ka taea te whiwhi tiwhikete GRS. He rite te nairona kua whakahoutia ki te nairona tauhou i roto i te whakaora totoro me te ātete ki te pakū. He rite te manawa o te miro waro ki te miro noa engari kei roto he tiwhikete GOTS ka taea e tō kiritaki te manatoko takitahi. He ngawari te ahua o te muka bamboo ki te ringaringa me ngā āhuatanga antimicrobial taiao, ahakoa ko ana kereme tauwhiro e whakawhirinaki ana ki te tikanga tukatuka e whakamahia ana hei huri i te bamboo hei papanga.

3. Me whai ara ake te oranga tonutanga

He tino whaitake te hihiri ki te whakamātau i te mahi whakaputa pumau i ngā wāhanga rerekē o te tipu. E hiahia ana tētahi kamupene hou D2C ki te whakamātautau i te mākete me te kotahi te rekereke hangarua. E hiahia ana tētahi waitohu rongonui ki te neke i tētahi papanga hokohoko nui ki ngā papanga whaimana, kotahi te SKU i ia wā. He tino hiahia ēnei.

Engari he rerekē te ariā whakaputa o ngā papanga tauwhiro i ngā mea tuku iho. Ko te polyester hangarua kua whakamanahia e te GRS me whai i te mekameka tiaki katoa mai i te pūtake muka ki te hua kua oti — kāore e taea te tohatoha i te wāhi whare putunga me te polyester tuku iho. Me rere te miro waro GOTS i runga i ngā raina tae motuhake, ki te kore ka whakakorea te tiwhikete e te poke whakawhiti. Me whakahaere motuhake te pāmahana me te haumākū o ngā rauemi takai pirau-koiora. Ehara tēnei i te mea e pā ana ki te manakohanga o te wheketere. Engari e pā ana ki ngā whakaritenga arotake tiwhikete: ina oti te whakaranu i te mekameka whai, kāore te tiwhikete e mau.

Koia te take i kore ai a ZIYANG e tāpiri i te kaupapa oranga tonutanga ki ngā taumata whakaputa katoa, engari ki te hanga i tētahi raina motuhake mōna:

E ono ngā tiwhikete (GRS, GOTS, OEKO-TEX, BSCI, SA8000, ISO 9001-F) e kapi ana i ngā whānuitanga arotake rerekē—mai i te whai i ngā muka ki te haumaru matū, mai i ngā tika mahi ki te whakahaere kounga. Me whai whakamātautau me ngā tukanga tuhi motuhake ia puranga papanga, ia puranga whakapaipai, me ia puranga hua kua oti. He nui ake te rahinga ota iti rawa i tērā o ngā raina whakaputa tikanga nā te mea kua horapa ēnei utu pumau puta noa i ngā waeine takitahi; ki te iti ake ngā rahinga, ka kore e whai hua te raina whakaputa.Mā ngā raina whakaputa motuhake ka tukuna he huarahi iti te mōrearea ki ngā waitohu hei uru atu ki te mākete hua tauwhiro: ka haere tonu te whakatutuki i ngā ota tuku iho e ngā raina whakaputa o nāianei, ko ngā SKU rauemi hangarua GRS ka whakaritea motuhaketia i runga i ngā raina whakaputa whakahaeretia, hoa-taiao, e āwhina ana i te wehewehe rauemi, te whai i ngā tuhinga, me te whakahaere tiwhikete. Kāore e hiahiatia ana e ngā kamupene tīmatanga D2C te huri i tā rātou kohinga katoa ki ngā hua tauwhiro i te wā kotahi; ka taea e rātou te tīmata me te ota whakamātautau mō te SKU kotahi o ngā reke polyester hangarua kua tiwhiketehia e GRS. Ka taea hoki e ngā waitohu kua roa te whakawhiti āta i ā rātou taonga tino hokohoko i runga i te kaupapa mō ia SKU. Mā tēnei ka taea e ngā waitohu te ine tuatahi i te urupare a te mākete i mua i te whakawhānui i te ōwehenga o ngā hua tauwhiro.

4. Te haurua o te oranga tonutanga ka taea e tō kiritaki te pā atu

Ko ngā tiwhikete papanga te mea e arohia ana. Ko ngā takai, ngā tohu whakairi, ngā pātene, me ngā reti ko te haurua tuarua o te hanga tauwhiro, ā, koinei ngā mea e tino pā ana ki te kaihoko ina whakatuwherahia e rātou te kete. Ko te kākahu e tae mai ana i roto i te putea kānga pirau me ngā pātene anga kokonati me te tohu whakairi hangarua, kāore e hiahiatia kia whakamāramahia e te kaihoko te tohu tiwhikete. Ka taea e rātou te kite i te rerekētanga. Ka taea e rātou te rongo. Mā te wheako wetewete i te pouaka ka huri te kereme tauwhiro koretake hei mea e pā ana ki te ringa.

Kei roto hoki i ēnei kōwhiringa taputapu ō rātou ake ariā tauwhiro. Ka whakakorea e ngā takai pirau-koiora te whakaaro hara nui a te kaihoko i roto i te hokohoko tuihono: ko te putea kirihou e tika ana ki te ipu para. Ka whakakapia ngā kirihou hinu-hinu e ngā pātene anga kokonati ki tētahi hua ahuwhenua. Ka kati ngā tohu whakairi hangarua i te porowhita i runga i te wāhanga pepa o te hua. Kāore tētahi o ēnei huringa e hiahiatia ana he tiwhikete anō, he taputapu anō rānei. Kei te wātea inaianei, i ngā rahinga whakaputa paerewa.

Mō ngā waitohu e hanga ana i tā rātou kōrero mō te oranga tonutanga, ka tukuna e ngā taputapu he painga kōrero e kore e taea te whakataurite e te papanga. Ka whakatuwherahia e te kiritaki he pouaka. Ka taea te whakawairakau i te putea o roto. E mea ana te tohu whakairi "i hangaia ki te polyester hangarua kua whakamanahia e te GRS, kua takaihia ki te kānga witi pirau." Ko taua raupapa te kōrero pai ake i tētahi paraka whārangi hua.

5. He aha te tikanga o tēnei mō tō waitohu

Ko te kōrero mō te oranga tonutanga o ngā kākahu mahi ko ngā kamupene muka e kī ana ki ngā waitohu he aha ngā rauemi hei whakamahi. E whakautu ana taua tirohanga i te pātai "he aha ngā mea e wātea ana." Kāore e whakautu i te pātai uaua ake: me pēhea te kōrero i tētahi kōrero oranga tonutanga e whakaponohia ana e ngā kiritaki.

E tohu ana ngā raraunga mai i te rangahau kaihoko o te tau 2025 ki ngā ture e toru e whakakore ana i te haruru. Tuatahi, he mea nui ake ngā tiwhikete i ngā kupu āhua, nā te mea ka taea te manatoko i ngā tiwhikete. Tuarua, ka whai ake ngā arataki mahi me te pumau, nā te mea ka tautuhia e ngā kaihoko te "pūmau" mā te roa o te ora o tētahi hua, ehara i te mea e kīia ana i te tohu whakairi. Tuatoru, he nui ake te motuhaketanga i te whānuitanga, nā te mea kotahi te hua he kereme mārama, ka taea te manatoko ka hanga he whakawhirinaki nui atu i te kohinga katoa e whakaahuatia ana he "hoa-taiao".

I ZIYANG, ka hangaia e mātou he kākahu mahi tauwhiro kua whakamanahia mā roto i tētahi raina whakaputa hoahoa taiao, e mahi ana ki ngā waitohu puta noa i te 70 whenua neke atu. Kei roto i tā mātou whare pukapuka papanga tauwhiro te polyester hangarua kua whakamanahia e GRS, te nairona kua whakahoutia, te miro waro kua whakamanahia e GOTS, me te muka bamboo, me te tautoko i ngā tiwhikete tae atu ki a GRS, GOTS, OEKO-TEX Standard 100, BSCI, SA8000, me ISO9001-F.